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When curating a ranking of London’s top eateries, one might anticipate familiar award-winning establishments. However, situated high among these gastronomic titans is a simple salonu found in a far-flung area of north London.

A Shocking Honour

This small Turkish spot, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a respected food magazine. The recognition has left the owners completely surprised.

“I’m utterly surprised,” remarks the proprietor, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their modest shop securing such a prominent spot on a respected 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

The small shop, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after food hotspot, has retained much of its former charm. It accommodates just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking display, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” comments the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the cuisine, and this restaurant definitely excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a succulent consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. Once the savoury mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is typically consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is doused in less syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a deeper, nuttier and not overly sweet flavour.

Outranking the Giants

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the peak of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for under £25, comparable experiences at top-tier establishments can start at many times that price.

A Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is supported by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a position of power, he would “require to make every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of excess, and to reveal what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Story of Dedication

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at fancy establishments. “I feel very pleased of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a social life but her friends would support her to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

A Recognition for the Culture

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to resonate outside its own premises. “I think a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the greater meaning of this gastronomic triumph.